28 Jan 10

Shea Butter: The Ultimate Skin Nourisher

Karite butter, more popularly known as Shea Butter, is a natural fatty substance derived from the nuts of the Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) Tree, which grows only in the tropical regions of West and Central Africa.

Butyrospermum parkii, also called Mangifolia tree, begins to bear fruit after about 15 years of growth — and can take up to 30 years to yield a quality harvest of nuts that contain a high content of irremovable fatty acid. This irremovable fatty acid property gives Shea Butter its distinct therapeutic qualities, and benefits to the skin that are far superior to cocoa butter or other vegetable butters.

Depending on the source of the nuts used, Shea Butter’s color varies anywhere from pale yellow to cream and ivory white. And since Shea Butter is a natural product, its quality, appearance and smell may be different from batch to batch, depending on where it originated and how it is extracted or refined.

History and Origin

Though Shea Butter has gained popularity in recent years, its application is far from a recent discovery.  In fact, Africans have been using Shea Butter for several centuries to revitalize their skin and hair, and to protect them from the sun, wind and salt water.

In addition, Africans also use Shea Butter as a cooking lard, waterproofing wax, for hairstyling and candle making, and as a medicinal ingredient for ointments. African makers of traditional percussion instruments also use Shea Butter to improve the resilience of wood and leather binds.

Shea Butter is extracted by cracking the shea nuts, then drying, grilling and grinding the kernel. The resulting powder is then boiled in water for hours until an oily substance rises and solidifies at the surface, creating the Shea Butter.

Shea Butter Properties

Shea Butter is a compound fat that possesses many non-saponifiable elements (constituents that cannot be fully turned into soap by an alkali treatment).  It is normally solid at room temperature, but quickly melts at around body temperature.

The skin also easily absorbs Shea Butter without a greasy after feel, and because it contains many of the fatty acids needed to maintain skin’s moisture and elasticity, Shea Butter makes a superior additive to soaps, shampoos, cosmetics, lotions, massage oils, and moisturizers like our very own natural facial moisturizers, which are all rich in certified organic Shea Butter.

Loaded with vitamins A and E, Shea Butter protects the skin against environmental and free radical damage, and contains both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory qualities. Plus, it is packed with a high content of cinnamic acid (a substance that helps shield the skin from harmful UV rays), creating a gentle, completely natural sunscreen.

Uses and Benefits

In medicine, Shea Butter has been recognized as a topical anti-inflammatory, helpful in treating arthritis. It also contains a chemical known as stigmasterol, (aka “the anti-stress factor”), which is said to ease symptoms of rheumatism. Moreover, studies show that Shea Butter can be used as a nasal relief by applying it to the inside of the nostrils.

However, what has made Shea Butter so in-demand today is its amazing benefits to the skin, which Africans have widely celebrated for thousands of years.  Shea Butter can be used to support healing of burns, wounds, scars, eczema, psoriasis, dandruff and stretch marks. It also helps minimize wrinkles and delays the signs of aging by deeply moisturizing the skin, boosting cell regeneration and improving micro-circulation. In addition, some of the health and beauty benefits of Shea Butter include:

  • Supports healing of wounds, blemishes and rashes;
  • Eases skin peeling after tanning;
  • Alleviates itching due to dryness;
  • Softens rough, cracked skin on feet (especially the heels);
  • Protects against environmental elements;
  • Prevents bumps and irritation after shaving;
  • Helps restore skin’s suppleness;
  • Maintains lustrous, healthy-looking hair.

It is pretty obvious that the numerous benefits of Shea Butter make it a wise choice when looking for skin care products that are the most beneficial to your skin, but the benefits of Shea Butter-rich products don’t stop at skin and hair care.

When personal care manufacturers like Alchemilla purchase Shea Butter as a raw material, they also assist communities in Africa, and especially women in business in those communities, who depend upon this wonderful natural resource for their livelihoodcontain certified organic Shea Butter may be found at our Butyrospermum parkii Herbarium page.

References:

“Research and Development of the Shea Tree and its Products“, University of Ghana, 2002
“Moisturising power of shea butter highlighted by scientific studies“, K Bird, 2009

1 Comment Posted in Herbarium, Organic Skin Care by MyAlchemilla
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13 Jan 10

Get Off the Lip Balm Bandwagon!

Are you a Lip Balm Addict? Do your lips seem to have an insatiable need for more and more lip balm, applied over and over throughout the day, almost as though the more you apply, the more you need?  Or, have you ever suffered from “Lip Balm Withdrawal”?  You know.  You find yourself desperately searching your purse for your lip balm because you will surely scream if it isn’t applied this instant!?

If you replied yes to either of the above, you are probably a Lip Balm Addict, and it’s probably not your fault!

Folks, it’s time to get off that Lip Balm Bandwagon (as we like to call it), with Alchemilla’s Healing Lip Balm.  With this magical product you really can get lasting help for your dry lips without desperate withdrawal symptoms in between applications! 

This wonderfully soothing, truly effective moisturizing balm for lips is very different from all others.  For one thing, it contains no irritating mint or menthol – ingredients that smell good and feel like they’re oh-so soothing, but are actually irritants and the main cause of many “Lip Balm Addiction” problems (we’re serious, these are a big no-no if you want healthy lips and the skin!).

Instead of pseudo-soothing menthol and mint ingredients, our Healing Lip Balm contains incredibly healing botanical extracts of St John’s Wort, Calendula and Chamomile in a wonderfully satisfying emollient base (that doesn’t just roll around on the lip’s surface, but really feels like it’s moisturizing deep down) for soothing, long lasting comfort to dry, parched lips.  You’ll feel the difference right from the instant it is applied!

And another great thing is that Healing Lip Balm only needs to be applied once or twice per day to be thoroughly effective, and you won’t suffer withdrawal symptoms in between.  Also, a tiny amount is all that you need, so the small tube of this luscious, lip-loving balm can last around 3-4 months, even with daily use!

So are you ready to get off the lip balm addiction bandwagon?  Yes? Great! Try Healing Lip Balm today.  You’ll never go back! >>>

1 Comment Posted in Skin Care Tips by MyAlchemilla
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8 Dec 09

Licorice Root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) – A Dynamic Breakthrough for Natural Skin Care

Becoming more and more popular in natural skin care products, and boosted by Dr Oz on Oprah recently as a must-have ingredient when it comes to anti-aging and skin lightening, Licorice Root (from the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant) has been an ingredient in various Alchemilla skin care products since the day we began creating them.

The purpose of this article is to provide a little insight into Licorice as a plant, medicinal herb and, most importantly, a valuable natural skin care ingredient.

Licorice – The Plant

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) goes by many names, including “sweet root”, “sweet wood”, and “liquorice”.  A member of the pea (fabacea) plant family, licorice is a perennial herb that grows about 1.2-1.5 meters in height and has pinnate leaves about 7-15 cms in length. It thrives and grows wild in southern Europe and some regions in Asia.

The licorice plant’s flower varies in color, from lilac to light blue, and produces seeded pods of 2-3 cms in length on its branches.

The most sought-after part of Licorice, however, is its roots. These long, cylindrical pieces of creased, fibrous wood grow horizontally underground, are brown on the outside and yellow on the inside.

Licorice Root – A Sweet Treat

Licorice Root is a flavorful herb that contains a natural element that is about 50% sweeter than sucrose. For this reason it has been extensively used throughout history and in modern times as a sweetener, not only for candies, but also in cough syrups, tonics, laxatives and as an ingredient to improve the flavor of otherwise unpleasant tasting herbal remedies.

Licorice Root is also used to flavor various kinds of liquors, frozen dairy treats, puddings and gelatins and sometimes the soft and chewy root is consumed on its own as a sweet natural treat.

A Rich History of Medicinal Use

While it has been used as a flavor enhancer for centuries, many individuals may not realize that Licorice Root also possesses very valuable medicinal attributes.

In fact, Licorice Root has a long, rich history of medicinal use by cultures worldwide, including the Greeks, Egyptians, Chinese, and Hindus. It was also highly treasured in ancient Egypt and when King Tutankhamen died, he was buried with a supply.

Its first notable report of health-giving benefits comes from the Greeks however, who prescribed Licorice Root for treating gastric and peptic ulcers. Since that time, Licorice Root has been recommended throughout the world to help soothe coughs, colds and symptoms of bronchitis.

In China, Licorice Root has been used to promote vitality, and is said to help revitalize the heart, treat palpitations and boost the spleen.

In India, Licorice Root is used in traditional Ayurdevic medicine for the relief of constipation, swelling of the joints and peptic ulcers.

Supportive Research

Research shows that Glycyrrhizin, one of the major components found in Licorice Root, is responsible for many of this herb’s healing qualities. Laboratory studies have demonstrated that glycyrrhizin decreases inflammation, aids in secretion of mucous, soothes irritation, and protects the stomach and gastrointestinal tract.

Other studies demonstrate that Licorice Root extract contains a glabridin flavonoid, which promotes the activity of the adrenal glands (controls cortisol, the stress hormone) and makes it an effective antioxidant.

Licorice Root in Skin Care

So why is a skin care company like Alchemilla so interested in this fascinating herb?

Why, indeed! Recent studies have confirmed that this wonder herb also provides remarkable effects on the skin as a natural skin lightener and antioxidant.

During the early 1990s, Japanese scientists first isolated the substances in Licorice Root that were shown to be highly beneficial for the skin: Glabridin, Glabrene, Licochalcone, and Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate.

Glabridin

Glabridin is a potent skin whitening agent.  It helps re-balance dermal cells and decreases melanin formation (the pigment responsible for skin discoloration).

Glabrene

Glabrene is an anti-oxidant at least as powerful as natural vitamin E.

Licochalcone

Licochalcone is an effective anti-acne ingredient that regulates oil production and eliminates bacteria. In addition, licochalcone helps soothe acne-prone skin, making it highly recommendable for sensitive and allergy-prone skin types.

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Stearyl glycyrrhetinate has potent soothing anti-inflammatory properties. This contributes towards Licorice Root’s suitability as an ingredient for the most sensitive skin.

Time and again, Licorice Root has proven its huge contribution to both traditional and modern medicinal uses, and with more and more research supporting its value as an effective topical ingredient, Licorice Root is one ingredient to look for in any natural anti-aging skin care product.

Look for Licorice Root in Alchemilla’s Antioxidant Concentrate Serum, or view Glycyrrhiza glabra in the Alchemilla skin care herbarium for more details on this herb and where to find it in the Alchemilla product line.

References:

Free Radical Biology and Medicine, Volume 23, Issue 2, 1997, Pages 302-313
US National Library of Medicine [Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.)...]
Licorice Root News and Article (Natural news.com)
LicoriceRoot.net

1 Comment Posted in Herbarium, Organic Skin Care by MyAlchemilla
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7 Nov 09

Medicinal Herbs Becoming Extinct

Last year, we at Alchemilla Ultra-Pure Skin Care were very fortunate to move to a wonderful small farm in Oregon on which, as many of our customers and fans know, we now grow herbs for use in our organic skin care products. 

Immediately we arrived at our new property we began the process of converting a rather barren and disorderly landscape into a wonderfully fruit- and flower-filled garden. 

In contrast with what existed here almost 24 months ago – that is, a severely compacted and infertile piece of land that had seen its day - there now exists rows of fluffy, humus-rich soil that sustain a flourishing crop of organic medicinal and beautifying herbs:  Herbs that we grow in line with various organic and biodynamic principles and the rather famous rhythmic planting calendar; herbs that we use in our organic skin care products.

During an online research session last year, at a time when we were figuring out what would be most appropriate to grow on the property in our first year, I accidentally (but delightfully) discovered an at-risk medicinal herb plant conservation organization known as United Plant Savers (UpS for short). 

Through reading information on their website, I was astonished to discover that mainly to over-harvesting by humans, many beautiful and useful North American native medicinal herbs are at-risk of extinction in the wild!

Given my love for medicinal herbs and, well, all plants in general, this disturbed me greatly, yet it also inspired me to immediately look at ways we at Alchemilla could participate in helping to conserve these precious plants.  Ideally, we wanted to incorporate our help to coincide with our goal as a skin care herb grower and manufacturer.

Our first and most obvious decision, was to switch from using American Ginseng (Panax quinquefolius) to using Siberian Ginseng (Eleutherococcus sinticosus) in our product formulations.  We have learned that these two herbs are completely inter-changeable and have almost identical active properties.

Our second decision was to become a UpS ‘Partner in the Green’ to raise awareness via sales of our Organic Skin Care Trial Kits. 

Our third decision was to find ways of incorporating as many at-risk medicinal herbs into our landscape as possible – whether they form part of our domestic garden or the outer crop areas.  As a start, we seeded and planted an assortment of Echinacea (purpurea and angustifolia) and saw those come right through to flower throughout the garden in their first year (in fact most of them are still in flower right now).

This third decision has been rather more challenging, however we do look forward to building our inventory of at-risk plants throughout the property next season to add to the Echinacea.

Although relatively small compared with the hundreds of acres of some herb farms, we do have a broad variety of planting conditions throughout the property – dark shade under very tall cedar trees, bare bumpy pasture where llamas used to roam, boggy wet soil, dry shade, full sun, raised beds, solid clay and rich humus - and we’re pretty sure we have a micro-climate of sorts, due to last year in winter us having snow all over our property one morning, yet our neighbours having none.  So it’s really quite a place and we’re certain it will be able to sustain quite a variety of at-risk herbs!

Of course, growing these medicinal plants at the Alchemilla property is probably not alone going to save these plant species.  We need more humans to become aware, especially those who might want to harvest from the wild, that by pulling that medicinal plant species up from the ground or snipping off its flowers before it has a chance to seed, one might be speeding up its altogether disappearance from planet earth.

In the years to come, Alchemilla will be looking at ways to help UpS increase awareness of at-risk medicinal herbs so that together, and with those who care to join us, we can prevent any of these precious medicinals disappearing from our landscape forever.  One dream is that plant-loving Alchemilla customers throughout North America incorporate one, maybe two (or maybe ten) different at-risk medicinal species into their backyard gardens!

To become a member of United Plant Savers, or learn more about at-risk medicinal plant species, visit the UpS website.

To learn more about Alchemilla, visit our MyAlchemilla.com organic skin care website.

1 Comment Posted in Environment, Herbarium by MyAlchemilla
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25 Oct 09

Dry Skin – The Alchemilla Approach

In the warmer, balmier months of spring and summer, many of us can get through the day with a little light moisturizer on our skin.  Or, for those who are really lucky, a light serum and perhaps a spritz of hydrating floral water every so often.  However, those of us with dry skin conditions usually need something more no matter what the climate.

Dryness is a very common skin condition, and even more so in the colder months of the year.  In fact, individuals who normally have perfect, trouble-free skin for most of the year can often suffer from dry skin conditions as soon as the outside temperature begins to drop.  

Why is this so?  Dry skin occurs more in the colder months because, generally, the cold air outside combined with hot air inside creates a low relative humidity.  This low humidity typically causes the skin to lose moisture. 

Other common causes of dry skin include:

  • Bathing or showering too frequently;
  • Using harsh soaps;
  • Deficiency of vitamins (specifically A and/or D);
  • Illness;
  • Overexposure to sunlight;
  • Hormonal changes/imbalance;
  • Some medications.

Anyone with a dry skin condition may be tempted to immediately slather on an extra-rich moisturizing cream to immediately relieve that dry, taut feeling and ‘disappear’ those dehydrated fine lines.  Seems logical.  Certainly, extra-rich facial products can provide an instant sense of relief and the feeling that somehow we are winning the battle against our moisture-depleted skin.  Unfortunately however, richer is not always better, especially if you don’t want to create a dependence cycle with your skin care products, and you do want your skin to achieve a natural balance. 

Ideally, when caring for a dry skin condition, one should use organic skin care products that nourish adequately enough to minimize trans-epidermal water loss, yet do not over-nourish with heavy oils and waxes, which only serve to clog the pores and not encourage the skin to respond, by itself, to environmental changes. 

It is important to understand that our body has the innate ability to maintain homeostasis (equilibrium) by itself, and that supporting this process with biologically compatible, plant-based skin care products, rather than inhibiting it with products that over-nourish or stress our skin more, can do much to promote inner resilience and a complexion that radiates health and vitality, regardless of external factors.

The Alchemilla Approach to Dry Skin Care

Perfect for colder months, Alchemilla’s Calendula Cream and Rosebay Willowherb Cream will help keep skin adequately moisturized and protected while not over-nourishing and inhibiting skin’s inner balance.  These organic facial moisturizers contain powerful plant-derived emollients that nourish and protect from trans-epidermal water loss, and natural humectants to draw water from the atmosphere and hold it on the skin.  They also contain organic botanical extracts to address specific needs – Calendula Cream can address dry skin that tends to peel or chafe and Rosebay Willowherb Cream can address issues of sensitive and reactive skin. 

When aging from environmental pollution is a concern, Alchemilla’s Rehydrating Day Care Cream contains a potent natural antioxidant complex to address free radical damage, and the right balance of emollients and a natural humectant to moisturize and hydrate without over-nourishing.

In the evening, or if your skin needs that little bit of extra moisture during the day than most day creams provide, a Rehydrating Night Balm is perfectly formulated with a unique blend of powerful organic moisturizing ingredients and regenerative herbal extracts to nourish, nurture and enhance skin’s natural restorative processes during rest time.

A humidifier at one’s office desk or in the bedroom at night can generate a good amount of moisture in the otherwise dry air.  If a humidier isn’t a practical solution, an Aromatic Floral Water (with in-built humectant) can be spritzed directly onto the skin and into the immediate environment throughout the day.  In combination with a humectant-containing facial moisturizer, this addition of moisture to the air will do wonders to keep those skin cells plumped up full of moisture. 

Surprisingly, also important for dry skin care is regular exfoliation with a gentle product to de-flake, loosen and remove epithelial build-up to prevent clogging of pores and improve absorption of your moisturizer.  We suggest a mechanical (physical), rather than chemical (AHA, BHA), exfoliation treatment that is suitable for dry, and often sensitive, skin types.  Try Alchemilla’s Exfoliating Face Wash Cream.  This incredibly gentle organic facial exfoliant’s is highly concentrated in tiny smooth beads of jojoba and can be used on even the most sensitive skin to instantly uncover a smooth, soft, youthful glow without the risk of irritation that comes with a chemical exfoliant.

A simple shift in our understanding of what dry skin really needs can make all the difference when we are trying to create for ourselves a better chance at minimizing ongoing skin problems and achieving the radiant, balanced complexion we’ve always wished for.

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