Cosmetics Ingredient Safety: Who can we believe?

As Alchemilla customers know, we are a natural skin care manufacturer with a huge social/environmental/health conscience combined with the fundamental goal of creating truly exquisite, shelf-safe, health-safe, toxin-free products that do what they say they will do.  We also endeavour to educate readers of our blog and visitors to our website as much as possible about cosmetics ingredients, especially those ingredients we use in Alchemilla products, and ultimately promote a common sense approach to safe skin care.

For every piece of factual, scientific based data available however, there seems to be at least 10 ‘experts’ who in their blogs claim toxicity or harmfulness of the every ingredient natural skin care manufacturers add to their products to ensure they are safe as well as effective.  Popular spotlighted ingredients are the preservatives, which are paramount to ensuring one can safely store a product on the shelf for a reasonable period of time without fear of microbial contamination. We’ve even found a blog that deliberately quotes an FDA’s warning out of context in order to, it appears, begin a culture of fear around phenoxyethanol, a popular preservative in natural skin care products.

With the huge and seemingly growing amount of unsubstantiated information found online, it was refreshing for us recently then, to have come upon a website (personalcaretruth.com) developed by a group of individuals who have been researching personal care ingredients for decades.  The group is dedicated to delivering actual facts about cosmetics ingredients, and to challenge the scare tactics of fear mongerers who it appears would have consumers believe that almost anything that isn’t a plant is harmful to your health.  With real scientific data, the goal of personalcaretruth.com is to clear up many misconceptions about ingredients, particularly in respect to how they are used (topically) and how they are found within the context of a finished product (ie. often in tiny proportions).

Although we have regularly endorsed excellent resources for ingredient safety information and refer to these often in our own research, we have had to contend with a lot of the data being from assessments made of ingredients at 100% concentration, or from a consideration that an ingredient may or may not have been possibly contaminated with something else.  In addition, almost every cosmetic ingredient MSDS (material safety data sheet) has warnings which can sometimes seem alarming.  Again, however, MSDS information is for a 100% concentration of the ingredient, and even simple Sunflower or Hazelnut Oils, in accordance with their respective MSDS’s, require safety goggles and have specific First Aid measures in case they get into contact with the skin!

Additionally, within an actual skin care product, many ingredients that are approved for use but aren’t ‘natural’ in the strictest sense or do have some potential for irritation at high percentages, are found in extremely minute proportions (eg. citric acid, an important pH buffer, or potassium sorbate, a food grade preservative). In fact these ingredients are in some Alchemilla products, but often at less than .05%).  At such tiny concentrations, even ingredients considered irritating have very little potential of doing harm to the end user. 

It would be an understatement, then, to announce how very pleased we were to finally come across personalcaretruth.com, whose focus is on providing scientifically backed information about personal care ingredients within the context of the products in which they are found.

One might argue that the personalcaretruth.com group is not unbiased because one or two of their founders have their own skin care manufacturing business.  A fair charge, but would it not also be fair then to question who is behind many of the alarmist ingredient toxicity claims on the other side of the fence?  Are they unbiased? 

A quick online search will find many of the claims and warnings are from brand manufacturers themselves, or even consumer advocate organizations (within which have founding members who own their own brand of personal care products).  If nothing else, personalcaretruth.com is potentially the first of many online equalizers to come, and a welcome one at that.  It is, after all, becoming increasingly confusing for the conscientious consumer to figure out what is and isn’t safe to put on their bodies, and more often than not they tend to believe the first thing they read about an ingredient (which is often accompanied by no scientific backing whatsoever).

In the end, common sense must prevail.  If one really wants to get a level-headed answer on the question of cosmetics ingredient safety, it really boils down to ensuring that whatever data one bases a conclusion upon, it must come from the most unbiased source possible, who has proper scientific resources to adequately study the ingredient as it is meant to be used in skin care (topically (ie. externally), often in tiny concentrations).  As much as we’re not happy with the FDA’s inability to fully regulate the personal care industry and what this has meant for the unaware consumer, it is one of the most reliable sources available for exact data. Another is the cosmetics ingredient review board and, although there has been argument that this group is not completely unbiased, they have undertaken a lot of research and re-research of the ingredients for which they report and provide an excellent guideline.

Ingredient alarmism seems to have ‘gone viral’ and I often ask myself “why has this happened?”  Certainly, with the information now available to us, it makes perfect sense that we cannot afford NOT to check ingredient lists and do our own research.  I do often question however, what’s in it for ingredient alarmists and remind myself that any individual or company can hide behind a blog.  It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that unsubstantiated ingredient toxicity claims keep independent businesses so busy defending their formulations, as well as trying to figure out how to create a shelf-safe product without the use of an adequate preservative, and checking and re-checking their research, that they finish up with very little time to do what they originally intended – create safe, natural, effective beauty products!?  Hmm, alarmism sounds like a good strategy for gaining, or maintaining, the competitive edge!

To this end, we at Alchemilla do hereby pledge, in order to not add to consumer confusion, we will continue to only discuss toxic or irritating ingredients on the Alchemilla blog when we can point to adequate scientific references that substantiate our conclusions!

New Alchemilla Skin Care Herbs Newsletter

If you’ve followed our blog for some time, or browsed our website and/or checked out, in particular, the Alchemilla Skin Care Herbarium, you’ve probably realized that, in addition to our passion for creating ultra-pure, plant based skin care products, we at Alchemilla actually do have an authentic love of plants, and an equal passion for sharing what we know and learn about them - especially how they can help the skin look and feel its radiant best!

The unique and exclusive Alchemilla Skin Care Herbarium existed the day our company began. It is regularly updated and added to, and is an ongoing testimony to our passion for sharing what we know about the healing wonders of the plant world!

In essence, this handy online tool is packed with interesting and valuable information about the numerous herbs and flowers we use in our natural skin care products, and their innate beautifying qualities.

If you’ve ever wondered why Alchemilla’s pure, plant-based skin care products work so well, take a look around at our Skin Care Herbarium.

Of course, we realize not everyone has the time (or inclination) to do a lot of research on the subject of herbs and/or natural, plant-based skin care!  Which is why, beginning this month, we’re bringing the information directly to our newsletter subscribers through an exciting new and informative Alchemilla Skin Care Herbs newsletter.

In addition to receiving our special offers and promotions emails, those who are signed up as MyAlchemilla.com email subscribers will now enjoy learning a little each month about our wonderous world of beauty-enhancing herbs, their history, healing principles, and how they promote balance and beautiful, radiant skin!

If you haven’t signed up for our newsletter yet, now is the time!  Not only will you receive this wonderful new monthly instalment on beauty herbs, you will also receive our excellent special offers, news about new products and everything that is happening here at Alchemilla.

We hope you join us soon! To sign up now, click here.

Shea Butter: The Ultimate Skin Nourisher

Karite butter, more popularly known as Shea Butter, is a natural fatty substance derived from the nuts of the Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) Tree, which grows only in the tropical regions of West and Central Africa.

Butyrospermum parkii, also called Mangifolia tree, begins to bear fruit after about 15 years of growth — and can take up to 30 years to yield a quality harvest of nuts that contain a high content of irremovable fatty acid. This irremovable fatty acid property gives Shea Butter its distinct therapeutic qualities, and benefits to the skin that are far superior to cocoa butter or other vegetable butters.

Depending on the source of the nuts used, Shea Butter’s color varies anywhere from pale yellow to cream and ivory white. And since Shea Butter is a natural product, its quality, appearance and smell may be different from batch to batch, depending on where it originated and how it is extracted or refined.

History and Origin

Though Shea Butter has gained popularity in recent years, its application is far from a recent discovery.  In fact, Africans have been using Shea Butter for several centuries to revitalize their skin and hair, and to protect them from the sun, wind and salt water.

In addition, Africans also use Shea Butter as a cooking lard, waterproofing wax, for hairstyling and candle making, and as a medicinal ingredient for ointments. African makers of traditional percussion instruments also use Shea Butter to improve the resilience of wood and leather binds.

Shea Butter is extracted by cracking the shea nuts, then drying, grilling and grinding the kernel. The resulting powder is then boiled in water for hours until an oily substance rises and solidifies at the surface, creating the Shea Butter.

Shea Butter Properties

Shea Butter is a compound fat that possesses many non-saponifiable elements (constituents that cannot be fully turned into soap by an alkali treatment).  It is normally solid at room temperature, but quickly melts at around body temperature.

The skin also easily absorbs Shea Butter without a greasy after feel, and because it contains many of the fatty acids needed to maintain skin’s moisture and elasticity, Shea Butter makes a superior additive to soaps, shampoos, cosmetics, lotions, massage oils, and moisturizers like our very own natural facial moisturizers, which are all rich in certified organic Shea Butter.

Loaded with vitamins A and E, Shea Butter protects the skin against environmental and free radical damage, and contains both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory qualities. Plus, it is packed with a high content of cinnamic acid (a substance that helps shield the skin from harmful UV rays), creating a gentle, completely natural sunscreen.

Uses and Benefits

In medicine, Shea Butter has been recognized as a topical anti-inflammatory, helpful in treating arthritis. It also contains a chemical known as stigmasterol, (aka “the anti-stress factor”), which is said to ease symptoms of rheumatism. Moreover, studies show that Shea Butter can be used as a nasal relief by applying it to the inside of the nostrils.

However, what has made Shea Butter so in-demand today is its amazing benefits to the skin, which Africans have widely celebrated for thousands of years.  Shea Butter can be used to support healing of burns, wounds, scars, eczema, psoriasis, dandruff and stretch marks. It also helps minimize wrinkles and delays the signs of aging by deeply moisturizing the skin, boosting cell regeneration and improving micro-circulation. In addition, some of the health and beauty benefits of Shea Butter include:

  • Supports healing of wounds, blemishes and rashes;
  • Eases skin peeling after tanning;
  • Alleviates itching due to dryness;
  • Softens rough, cracked skin on feet (especially the heels);
  • Protects against environmental elements;
  • Prevents bumps and irritation after shaving;
  • Helps restore skin’s suppleness;
  • Maintains lustrous, healthy-looking hair.

It is pretty obvious that the numerous benefits of Shea Butter make it a wise choice when looking for skin care products that are the most beneficial to your skin, but the benefits of Shea Butter-rich products don’t stop at skin and hair care.

When personal care manufacturers like Alchemilla purchase Shea Butter as a raw material, they also assist communities in Africa, and especially women in business in those communities, who depend upon this wonderful natural resource for their livelihoodcontain certified organic Shea Butter may be found at our Butyrospermum parkii Herbarium page.

References:

Research and Development of the Shea Tree and its Products“, University of Ghana, 2002
Moisturising power of shea butter highlighted by scientific studies, K Bird, 2009